Yorkshire Dales 1st July 2010

1st July 2010 - Kettlewell - Arncliffe - Hawkswick- Kettlewell

Pathfinder Yorkshire Dales Guidebook Walk #16

6.96 Miles, 5 hours

Max altitude 1,617ft, Ascent 1,925ft, Descents 1,909 ft.

After a slightly less hearty breakfast

(chose poached eggs on toast in lieu of the breakfast banquet yesterday), we set off in the opposite direction from yesterday's meanderings across the stone bridge (wharfe bridge) out of Kettlewell.

The weather was less warm with a bit more cloud.

Heading right and taking the left hand track the path ascended for a while giving a good view over Kettlewell itself.

The path was relatively steep and eventually we reached the stone wall at the top

Here was a short scramble up through the gap to the top (nothing too bad or strenuous)

At the top we stopped to admire the view back over Kettlewell once again from this higher vantage point.

Following the moorland over easier gradients we enjoyed the ever opening views across the valleys. As can be seen from the trip log profile, this walk ascends a valley, descends down to Arncliffe and then ascends a second valley, before finally descending back down to Kettlewell again.

Once across the top of this moorland there followed a quite steep descent down to the village of Arncliffe. The first part of this was rocky through mixed woodland, care needed here on the descent.

Now, another word of warning (take heed ,travellers!), this time concerning the village of Arncliffe and its public house - The Falcon.

Having already been warned by Liz and Laurence the owners of our B&B that the landlord of the Falcon is a little .... eccentric.... and not to be offended... and that the beer is served.... unconventionally!

We approached the Falcon with a little trepidation.......

Entering the pub through the corridor it was... very quiet..... no one else around.

The small hatch in front appeared to be the bar - no one around, looking to the right a kitchen with open door.

An older gentleman sized us up.

He sighed, shrugged his shoulders, muttered something and trudged wearily to the small hatch......

He looked us up and down again (no doubt thinking more tourist, wannabbee hikers, not from these parts!)

He asked us what we would like.

There were no pumps on the bar, so I meekly enquired as to what he had - now noticing the casks of ale on the floor behind the bar.

Bitter or Lager he replied.

I went for the bitter, he poured it in a torrent into a jug from the cask, holding the jug , once filled to the light, and deposited from a height into the pint glass now on the bar.

This was obviously an art he has perfected.. there was no spillage, nor an ice cream head on the beer, just a glass of beer with a reasonably frothy head all ready for consumption.

Sue had a coke!

The beer was actually very good, and in actual fact the landlord spoke without muttering, spending the time with us at the bar with conversations over our stay and origin.

The conversation even turned, for some strange reason, over pronunications of place names to Drax (strange name!) and its power station - though I think he had read some headlines in the newspaper that day regarding this, as his knowledge seemed quite detailed for someone living in the middle of nowhere.

We left in good cheer, the landlord shouting after us "Is it true that you get two eggs for breakfast at Pennycroft?".

Liz and Laurence had said that at some point he would ask us this question - an in joke obviously! Yeah, you had to be there!

We left The Falcon refreshed, and continued on away from Arncliffe through to a riverside pasture still thinking about the pub and its landlord.

Here we stopped for lunch and watched the sandmartins swooping and diving, and observing their burrow nests in the side of the river enbankment. An excellent place to stop.

After lunch we continued through green pastures

crossing a footbridge across the river.

This led us to a narrow lane and the very small hamlet of

Hawkswick - just a few houses along a lane really.

Leaving Hawkswick we followed the sign for Kettlewell and turned up a stony track which gained height climbing up onto Hawswick Moor

The view down to Arncliffe can be seen above from the top of the moor.

The high level trek here leads to a cairn and gives splendid view over the second valley of the day before descending once again to lower grassier paths and a ruined building.

Following this path leads back to Kettlewell and the stone bridge, the sign below is just before the bridge on the main road into Kettlewell

We arrived back into Kettlewell around 15:30 having taken a leisurely and enjoyable 5 hours.

Liz had cake straight from the oven waiting for us on our return which we duly helped ourselves to along with tea and coffee.

Our Walk Score: 8/10

Yorkshire Dales 30th June 2010

YORKSHIRE DALES - NICE!!

30th June - Kettlewell - Cam Head - Starbotton - Kettlewell

Pathfinder Guide Yorkshire Dales Walk # 11 (6 1/4 Miles) 4 hours

(Height Gain 1,065Ft, Ascent 1,732Ft, Descent 1,456Ft)

We set off on another sunny day out of Kettlewell at 10:00.

The breakfast at Pennycroft had been huge. A full cooked breakfast with everything possible including 2 eggs, loads of toast, spectacular!

The first part of of the walk headed out of Kettlewell up a steep rocky track (Top Mere Road). This went on for about a mile or so the gradient easing to allow us to take in the splendid views.

We continued on across more open moorland rising to Cam Head and eventually the signpost above at Stabotton Cam Road. Going left here and climbing it levelled to a gate and a walled lane leading down to the village of Starbotton. We walked through the village and onto a bridge spanning the River Wharfe.

We stopped here as it was such a nice spot, and then carried on following the river back to Kettlewell.

On reaching Kettlwell a well deserved drink was had at the Blue Bell Inn.

Later that evening we took a walk through the village to the old stone bridge and the river bank below.

Our Walk Score 7/10

Yorkshire Dales 29th June 2010

OK, so we headed off from Harrogate towards the Yorkshire Dales. Our accommodation was a B&B in Kettlewell, but the plan was to go a little further north to Hawes and visit the Wensleydale creamery and the market in Hawes itself.

We arrived late morning, after a drive through the scenery of the Dales. We did the tour of the cheese production place which consisted of a short film and a look from an observation deck of the various stages of Wensleydale cheese production, much of it by done by hand. It was okay, but not worth a long drive, unless, perhaps you are dead mad on Wenselydale cheese! I like it, but not that much and Susan has a strong intolerance to cheese of any kind so not much fun for her really....

The market in Hawes was a disappointment, not very big or interesting really, so we soon moved on after a bite to eat in a cafe. We headed for the popular Aysgarth Falls.

This was good, we stopped at the visitors centre car park and headed off for the short walk to the upper falls. Had a walk about the falls, relaxed for a while, then headed back.

The bridge above is near to the path leading to the falls, if in the area, please cross this and visit the shop to the left over the other side. Purchase some of the Blackcurrant and Liquorice ice cream - very nice!! (nearly went for seconds!!)

It was now mid afternoon, so we headed for Kettlewell a bit further back south.

Our B&B was Pennycroft http://www.pennycroft.co.uk/

Pennycroft is a row of cotttages, though the centre one is not a part of the B&B.

We were in the corner cottage, which consists of a kitchen where the breakfasts and cakes etc... are prepared by Liz the owner. The breakfasts are served in the adjoining lounge which is also used for relaxation by guests at any other time. This looks out upon a large shared garden for all 3 cottages. A section of this can be used by guests and there is a table/patio area.

Liz`s husband is cricket mad and this shows as you go up the stairs with pictures and signed memorabilia, as well as a few local walking books which can be borrowed by guests.

We had a room with adjoining bathroom (with bath), which was a mistake as the room itself was "compact". The other room we realised later was much larger and had an en-suite shower. A tip for next time to book the bigger room.

The owners were very welcoming, offering drinks and cake on arrival and showed us to our room. They were very approachable and offered advice on walks, local pubs, where to eat etc... but were not too overbearing. The price was £65 per night incl breakfast. Though I think the bigger room is just a few pounds more.

Having checked in we explored the village a little, finding the 3 pubs (2 are actually opposite the B&B within a few strides away). Did not bother with the third as it was not to our liking, unless you like real spit and sawdust and chips and burgers. Though it was being renovated, so it may improve given time

Kettlewell itself is a good base for walking located fairly centrally in the Dales. It is "famous" for its Scarecrow festival, though we did not see much evidence or refererence to this during our stay as too early.

The local shop appears to sell everything, and is a real olde worlde place (wooden shelves and locals are allowed to buy on tick!) does a good range of sandwiches for taking on walks too.

We used the Blue Bell Inn every night as it offered reasonably priced food, a decent choice on the menu and cold beer. Good enough and, perhaps the best bit, thirty six steps from 'our' front door to theirs!

We retired, having eaten well and enjoyed a few pints of the local beer, all ready for walking the next day.

28th June Harrogate

Set off for Harrogate arriving early afternoon. We checked in at the Old Swan Hotel (famous for being the hotel where Agatha Christie disappeared to). It is located fairly central, an easy 5-10 minute walk into the town. A reasonable rate of £68 for the room but the sting was £15 each for breakfast which we declined!

We had a good walk around Harrogate, including indulging ourselves with afternoon tea at the famous Bettys tea room. Sue had the Bettys afternoon tea which was £16 and consisted of a plate of small sandwiches and a couple of tiny cakes. I had an omelette and a coffee (The coffee was £5.50! but it was from the Galapagos Islands!!, still not worth £5.50 though!)

Nice place but well overpriced... style over substance, but still they queue!! although you can't see the queue here, it was inside. Three weeks later we visited Harrogate again and the queue this time was around the block.

We returned to the hotel after looking around the shops and took our evening meal at a fish restaurant in the town (Graveleys, very nice), rather than the hotel.

There was a huge thunderstorm overnight waking us both up, but by the next day the weather was back to its usual sunny self again.

We headed off for the Yorkshire Dales...........

North Yorkshire Moors - Hole Of Horcum

Sunday 27th June 2010 - Hole Of Horcum

Pathfinder Guide North York Moors - Walk #13 Hole Of Horcum (7 Miles, 3hrs, 15 mins)

Max altitude 938Ft, Ascent 1,148Ft, Descent 1164Ft



We set off on a sunny Sunday from Barker Stake Farm a short drive of about 6 miles to the Hole Of Horcum Car Park (Free!!). Setting off walking at 10:15 across the main road and along the edge of the Hole. (View Below)

Ancient folk tales describe its creation due to a giant scooping out the "hole" to make his home in it. In reality the dramatic, deep, smooth-sided ravine was created as a result of erosion by escaping debris laden torrents of meltwater from a great ice blocked lake towards the end of the ice age.

We followed the track across the flat moor giving a good view across it and the purple tinted heather (somewhat dried due to the recent hot weather). This largely follows the rim of Horcum Hole for a couple of miles until fiveways is reached and Dundale pond. We head left here along the path marked Levisham.

It was then further along this path that we saw the sight below of farmers herding sheep from one field to another further along the track. We ambled behind though at one point a straggler escaped and headed towards us. The sheepdog soon intercepted this rogue sheep and it was placed in the cage on the back of the 4x4 bike. Soon the way cleared and we headed into the village of Levisham.

In Levisham we stopped at the Horseshoe Inn taking refreshment outside in the beer garden watching the village life pass by (not much of that -very quiet!)

We finished our drinks and continued through the village. We spoke with another couple heading in the opposite direction. They asked us directions as they had no map or much of anything (no water on such a hot day - madness!!). We did tell them there was a pub nearby which seemed to cheer them up some and gave them brief directions of where we had come from. They told us that the way we were heading was quite hard going.


Heading left took us into woodland with plenty of ups

and downs, and despite the shade of the wood it was very warm.

Later we were to see that it was approaching 30 degs for part of the day.

The wood seemed to go on for several miles before we came out and what was clearly now the bottom of the Hole of Horcum.

This was greener grassland before giving way to purple heather again and a hike out of the hole ascending upwards along narrow dirt tracks (very dry in the current weather)

Eventually these came out near to our start point the final stile leading onto the rim of the hole once again.

From here it was a short walk to the car park and a much needed cool down in the sanctuary of the car's air conditioning. We finished around 15:30.

Our Walk Score: 6.5/10

North Yorkshire Moors - Goathland

26th June 2010- Goathland - Beck Hole - Mallyan Spout - Roman Road -Goathland

Pathfinder Guide North York Moors

Walk # 25 - 8 Miles - 5 Hours

Max Altitude 738Ft, Total Ascents/Descents 2,050Ft,2,045ft.

The hearty breakfast at Barker Stakes farm was taken in a large conservatory area which was ideal for the purpose. There was a fridge to help yourself to cold juices, cereals, fruit and a choice of cooked breakfast items with toast, tea. coffee etc...... A good start to the day.

We drove to Goathland, about 30 minutes drive and parked in the main pay and display which was £2.20 all day.

Our route took us out of the car park (though a quick look at the village was in order as it was used as the set for the series "Heartbeat", complete with old style police car!)

We headed off on this sunny Saturday morning around 10:30 and followed a grassy path signed "Grosmont Rail Trail" part of the original Whitby - Pickering railway built by George Stephenson. After about a mile or so, we headed off the planned route to visit Beck Hole, and stopped at the pub near to the stone bridge shown below. It was early-ish into the walk but we decided upon some liquid refreshment. The pub bar was very small and served through a hatch in the neighbouring local shop. We sat outside for a while, had a look at the bridge, and after finishing our drinks headed back onto the route.

The route took us through a narrow wooded valley which in parts was quite hard, slow going as it was VERY rocky. I would NOT attempt this walk in or after rain as it would be both very slippery on the rocks and muddy.

This goes on for about a mile and a half before the Mallyan Spout waterfall is reached. This was a splendid 70ft drop and can be seen in the pictures below, though would no doubt be even more impressive had it not been so dry for so long recently.

We stopped for a short while before continuing along the rocky banks of the beck for about another mile (slow going still!)

Eventually we came out of the woodland and crossed a bridge and crossed several field edges with splendid open views across the valley. After another half mile we came to the Roman road, apparently one of the best preserved and most impressive stretches in Britain. Its culverts and parallel ditches are clearly visible across the heathery hillside. It was believed to be a moorland route from the fort at Malton to the North Sea coast and was built in AD 80.

We followed the roadway across Wheeldale Moor the track becoming less discernible as the roadway gave way to grassy and then heather covered tracks.

A crossing at Wheeldale Beck via stepping stones led onto moorland with even lesser sheep tracks, but the point to "aim" for is a prominent cairn as you ascend to the top of the moor.
A ridge is then followed with excellent views for about a mile before descending onto grassier pathways and the road back into Goathland.

Our Walk Score: 8/10 (A good varied walk, but slow going over rocky section)

We had a much welcomed ice cream in Goathland (very good ice cream here, recommended!!) and headed back to Barker Stakes Farm to enjoy the late sun and a drink or two (and eats) sat outside the apartment.