Pathfinder Guide Eastern Lakeland - Walk#14 (5 Miles)
Having arrived at the Patterdale Hotel on Monday, due to the weather it was Wednesday before conditions were good enough for us to brave another walk. (Others were braving the wet conditions, but we work on the premise that walking is supposed to be enjoyable - not a trudge, head down in persistent rain - showers OK, downpours - no thanks!)
In fact, Wednesday morning was pretty miserable and it was touch and go as to whether we were going to walk or not.
Having decided we had spent far too much in shops we arrived back at the Patterdale hotel around mid-day, and after debating and looking at the forecast and choice of routes we decided upon the double Wainwright of Sheffield Pike and Glenridding Dodd, as it was local and relatively short.
Parking was just a few miles up from Patterdale after going through Glenridding village. Just before the bottom of the lake turns there is a National Trust car park at Glencoyne. It was quiet, and can see why as it is fairly expensive, costing us around £5 for up to 6 hrs I think.
We set off at 12:45, the first few hundred yards of the walk required tracing the main road back to the entrance path to Glencoyne farm. There is only a very narrow verge and the road can be very busy so care needs to be taken.
We passed the farmhouse and actually walked through the garden (ie very close to the house and a bit intrusive really!) via a gate, leading out onto grassy slopes as shown above.
The path was steep but grassy for the first half mile or so, becoming then rockier as it passed through Glencoynedale following a wall. A long rocky terrace path was then followed before ascending again to Nick Head.
The best views here were gained with regular breathers to look back towards Ullswater and the direction from where we had walked.
Then, the path branched left, steepening again, the terrain becoming wilder, boggier and the path less distinct. The views ahead here were of Catstye Cam and Helvellyn in the farther distance and the knobbly ridge of Striding Edge.
We followed a very peaty path leading up to the summit of Sheffield Pike, the wind increasing over the last half mile and the temperature falling. Definitely needed gloves and our heavier coats on at this point and just shows how much the weather can change the higher you get.
We arrived at the Summit cairn (2,200ft) having seen only one other group of walkers, so a very quiet fell.
The view from Heron Pike, we found to be more stunning than Sheffield Pike itself as it gave unobstructed views over the Glenridding/Patterdale valley, as well as Ullswater itself.
Here we stopped and ate lunch, though the wind was strong and we did not stop for perhaps as long as we would have liked as it was just too blustery.
Suitably fed and watered (and now cold), we found the very steep, very rocky, and very twisty path down!
The guidebook describes this path as "narrow, torturous and twisting in delightful fashion"
I would just desribe it as Torturous!
This path takes both concentration and leg work as well as hands, arms, legs and other body parts ( ie bottom, if you are short!). It seemed to go on forever and slow progress (for us novices anyway). OK it was quite "fun" I guess, but I think I was laughing more than Sue!
Once we were finally down there was little respite as we looked up to see Glenridding Dodd ahead of us. However, looking back from where we had come, the way ahead to the top of this Dodd appeared to be much easier.
We followed the path up for a while, then diverted up the steep grassy stepped bank for a short cut to the top... steep and we arrived at the top out of breath and ready for another break to admire the views from here, the second Wainwright of the day. Only 1450ft this one though.
Looking back towards Sheffield/Heron Pike we were quite surprised the ruggedness and height that we had descended. Though the picture below does not really convey the sense of scale.
We followed the path down from Glenridding Dodd and down a grassy track following a wall.
This then gave way to Mossdale Beck and steep, rocky, woodland. Slow progress down again having to limber under some felled trees whilst descending at the same time. Eventually this steep and slippery descent brought us out onto the main road at a lay-by. By now we were both tired and our legs quivering like jelly through the exertion of the slow, rocky, slippy descent. At least the way back to the car park, the final half mile or so was via a more sedate path adjacent the main road along the shore of the lake. The final few hundred metres again along the road as the path disappeared, passing by the Glencoyne entrance and the sanctuary of the car park at 17:15.
Despite the length of only 5 miles, there is very little flat walking.
90% of this walk is either going up or down steep gradients over rocky, slippery, boggy terrain. The views however are to be savoured, particularly those from Heron Pike. For us novices, a strenuous walk mainly due to the nature of the terrain (not just the actual gradients). Highly recommended though, but it took us 4 and a half hours rather than the guidebook 3hrs.
Susan's note: A hard walk for me, very sore and achy the next day. Probably the most demanding walk I've ever done. I seemed to spend half the descent on my backside, good fun though and would recommend (just book a massage for the day after!)
Our Walk Score: 8/10
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